What does noise anxiety look like? It’s like when your dog hears thunder, starts barking and trembling; clinging to you like a magnet until the noise goes away.  Noise anxiety, also known as noise aversion, can be caused by tons of different noises from something as common as a doorbell to the occasional crack of fireworks.

An estimated 2 out of 3 dogs in the United States are affected by noise anxiety.   Did you know this is a medical condition that can and should be treated?  It’s important to understand that dogs experiencing noise aversion are similar to a person having an anxiety attack.

When left untreated, noise aversion likely worsens and can progress to fear of multiple types of noises, possibly leading to destructive behavior.

Why does this happen?

Some breeds of dogs are naturally predisposed to noise aversion.  This happens most often with herding dogs as well as some working dogs.

A traumatic or stressful event can cause a dog to become nervous around different sounds.  Poor socialization and maternal stress during pregnancy are also factors that could cause noise anxiety.

Signs of noise aversion can include:

• Lip licking
• Yawning
• Lifting a forelimb
• Whining or barking
• Freezing
• Panting
• Hiding
• Trembling
• Pacing
• Trying to escape 
• Attention seeking or unusual clinginess
• Inappropriate elimination

Noises that trigger anxiety can include:

• Thunder
• Fireworks
• Sirens and other street noises
• Indoor or outdoor construction
• Doorbells
• Lawn mowers and/or other yard tools
• Vacuum cleaners
• Garbage trucks or snow plows
• Sporting events on tv or at a local stadium
• Smoke detectors
• Electronic noises (i.e. microwave or cell phone)

What are some possible treatments?

Once a pet is diagnosed with noise aversion, treatment typically includes a combination of environmental management, behavior modification, and medication.  

Changing their environment:

In order to manage their environment, it is recommended you create a safe space for your dog to get away from the noise.   A few ideas for environmental management include closing the blinds, playing music or turning on the television, moving to an inner room with better isolation from outside sounds, or distraction by playing with their favorite toy.   While our natural instinct may be to coddle or console the dog when it’s afraid, this added drama exacerbates the situation.

Behavior modification:

Using positive reinforcement, such as a food treat, to encourage positive emotional responses to sounds that induce fear can help modify their behavior.  This type of training should be done under the direction of a veterinarian or qualified animal behaviorist.  If done incorrectly, it can result in an increase of fear and anxiety.

Therapeutic products and medications:

Natural pheromone products, such as Adaptil Calm, can be beneficial.  These products contain a dog-appeasing pheromone that provides a strong signal of security and comfort.  There are also wraps and anxiety shirts that have become increasingly popular.  These wearable products are based on the belief that applying consistent pressure to certain parts of the body helps trigger a rest and relaxation response.

For many dogs, prescription medications are most effective in treating noise anxiety. There are several different types of prescription medications that can be administered. Your veterinarian will determine if a medication with a rapid onset of action that lasts for a few hours will suffice, or if medications that have a more long acting effect will work better.  

Take your answers to this quiz to your veterinarian to help them determine the best course of action.   Click here to begin.

Whether your dog suffers from noise anxiety continuously or just a couple times a year, it is important to seek treatment to help end the suffering.  Available treatments not only improve your dog’s quality of life, but can also give you peace of mind to know you have the proper tools to help when these anxious situations occur.

Does your dog suffer from noise anxiety?  We’d love to hear about your experience with any treatments, products, medications, etc.

I’m sure you’ve heard the saying “curiosity killed the cat”.  Unfortunately, for many dog owners “curiosity skunked the dog”.   These naturally curious canines oftentimes can’t resist getting into trouble.   When they do get skunked it is an unpleasant experience for everyone involved.  

Follow the steps below to get rid of the smell quickly and effectively.

First, assess the situation:

Check your pet’s eyes.  If they are red or irritated, take your dog to the veterinarian as skunk spray can potentially cause damage to the cornea.

If they are acting normally, keep your dog outside and act fast.  As the skunk spray dries it becomes more difficult to remove.

Second, make homemade skunk shampoo:

Mix together:

• 1 quart of 3% hydrogen peroxide 
• ¼ cup of baking soda
• 2 teaspoons of liquid dish detergent

CAUTION:  Do NOT get the solution in their eyes or mouth.  Do NOT store this mixture or make it ahead of time, as the mixture could explode if left in a bottle.

Third, how to remove the skunk smell:

You will want to wash your pet outdoors and use an old towel to dry them.  Scrub your dog with this solution and make sure to get all the way down to the skin.  If the face is involved, use a washcloth to carefully wash this area, and be sure to avoid the eyes and mouth.

*Do not let the dog soak for too long, as peroxide can discolor their coat (especially if the fur is dark brown or black). 

Last, rinse and repeat:

Rinse and repeat this process until the smell dissipates.  After the oils have been removed follow up with your pet’s regular shampoo, rinsing the coat thoroughly all the way down to the skin.  

Things you should know about skunks:

• They can spray up to 15 feet away
• They are not aggressive or dangerous and mean no harm to your pet
• They cannot spray again for 10 days
• They are most active in the evenings
• They breed during mid-February to late March and are out and about during this time

Unfortunately, any de-skunking process may not completely rid the pet of the skunk odor, no matter how thoroughly you scrubbed or how quickly you attended to the clean up. Especially if your pet got sprayed in the face, which is a tough spot to de-skunk.  Be proactive and keep an eye out for skunks, especially after dark during warm weather.

Has your dog ever been skunked?  

If so, please comment with any successful treatment!

A sniff walk allows your dog to sniff whatever he or she wants during a walk.  Dogs LOVE to sniff.  In fact, a dog’s sense of smell is 1000 times greater than a human’s.  Dogs have around 300 million olfactory receptors, whereas humans only have around 6 million.

Many of us spend time scrolling through social media, reading posts and comments, and sometimes sharing our opinions or stories.   A daily sniff walk can serve as your dog’s version of social media.  

Rather than hurrying along and focusing on the destination, try slowing things down a bit and letting your dog’s nose lead the way for a bit.  At times this can be challenging, but if you really pay close attention to what your dog is doing, you will see the joy this “sniffari” will bring them.  

Sometimes it helps to let your dog lead the way during the first 10 minutes or so, then use command words (ie: heel or leave it) to direct them to an exercise pace without the stop and sniff.  Having a small size treat on hand to reward good behavior can make this transition during your walk much easier.  Positive rewards and consistency with commands and routine can help teach your dog the difference between exercise, sniff walks, late-night potty walks, or hikes with other canine friends.

While improving enrichment for your pet should be a goal, it is important to set boundaries and remember leash manners.  Not all dogs are suited for these types of walks.  It is important that they’ve learned how to properly walk on a leash first. 

You’ve heard the saying “stop and smell the roses.”  Perhaps we can all benefit from a daily sniff walk to decompress and take in nature.   

Dogs “see” the world through scent.  This is how they interact with their environment.  Try giving them an opportunity to “scroll” through their social media on your next walk and comment below to let us know how it went.

Meet my friend Sugar.  This 12-year-old labrador retriever has a very unique adoption story.  Sugar worked as a pheasant hunting dog at Thuderstik Lodge in Chamberlain, South Dakota for most of her life.  At the age of 9, she was officially put into retirement and needed a good home to live out the remainder of her senior years.  There aren’t many people willing to adopt an older dog, let alone a retired hunting dog that lived most of her life in a kennel setting.

PetSnoot’s interview with Sugar:

PetSnoot:  How did you end up with your new family?

Sugar:   When my adoptive mom’s dog, Cartwright, died she was so heartbroken it took her a couple of years to consider adopting again.  My adoptive dad was anxious to get a dog, and after some convincing, they finally decided it was time.  

My new parents are outdoor enthusiasts and love to go hunting and fishing.  They both agreed on adopting an adult dog that could participate in their outdoor activities.  Upon searching for rescued or retired hunting dogs, they came across Thunderstik lodge.  

After perusing the page with dogs currently available for adoption, they decided (despite the long drive from Ohio to South Dakota) to come and meet me to see if I’d be a good fit for their home.

PetSnoot:  What was it like working and living at the lodge?

Sugar: I went through extensive training with the guides before they let me hunt with guests.  Once I completed the training, they let me go hunting a lot!  The humans call it working, but I think it is a lot of fun.  There is nothing better than being outdoors, flushing out pheasants for the hunters, and getting to be around different people.  

They took great care of me at the lodge.  Everyone was really nice and I had a huge kennel to rest every night.  There were about 25 other dogs that were either actively hunting with guests, going through the training program, or waiting for their forever home.  

After I reached middle age, they decided the long days were too much for me and I officially retired.  When that happens, they put my information on their website for potential adopters to learn all about me.  That’s how my new family found me!

PetSnoot:  Tell us about your new family,  what was it like to meet them?

Sugar: My adoptive parents drove all the way from Ohio.  They said it took about 15 hours to drive here.  Before they drove here the lodge told them I could still hunt, but not full time, and I would make a great house pet with some training.  I didn’t know exactly what they meant by housetraining, but they said I sounded like the perfect fit for them so they made the long drive to meet me.

We got to spend the night together at the lodge. I was really happy when they decided they would take me home with them!  We loaded up the car and there was a really soft bed for me to lay on during our drive.  They laughed when I stood up and peed all over my bed while we were driving.  I don’t think I was supposed to do that, but they were very nice about it and said they would teach me about the housetraining.

PetSnoot: What was your new home like?

Sugar: After our long drive to Ohio, we finally made it home.  The house was much bigger than my kennel at the lodge.  There were different rooms and a fluffy dog bed for me to sleep on.  

My new parents spent a lot of time taking me to the back yard and I finally figured out about the housetraining.  It only took me a few days to catch on!  There is a sidewalk and a street with cars that make noises I’m not used to.  We took a lot of walks on the sidewalk, and I really enjoyed my new surroundings.  They called me an alpha dog because I like to bark at other dogs when they pass by.  After they introduced me to a few dogs in my yard, I don’t get as worked up when I pass other dogs on the street.  

They take me hunting every now and then, and we also go fishing in their boat.  I love my new home and my new parents seem to really enjoy having me there.  I’m getting older and like to sleep most of the time, but they don’t seem to mind.

Sugar is 12 years old now and still living her best life as a retired hunting dog in Ohio.  Her parents say there is much joy in adopting an older dog.  Even though they know their time with Sugar is limited due to her old age, they love having the opportunity to give her the best quality in what is left of her life.  

If you are considering adopting a dog, please know there are a lot of older dogs that need a loving home to finish out their senior years.  Hopefully, Sugar’s story will inspire other pet parents to consider gifting an older dog with a wonderful retirement home.

Do you have a unique adoption story to share?  We’d love to hear from you!

Understanding which vaccines your dog needs is an important part of being an educated pet owner.  While it’s understandable that you don’t know everything there is to know about dog vaccinations and the diseases they protect against, understanding the basics outlined below will help to make your veterinary visit less stressful.  

It may surprise you to learn that not all dogs get the same vaccines.  Your veterinarian will determine which vaccines are necessary to keep your dog healthy based on your dog’s environment and lifestyle.

What are the diseases my dog may need to be vaccinated against?

There are two categories of vaccines, core, and non-core.    

Core vaccines are recommended for all dogs.  At this time the core vaccines are:

• Canine Distemper Virus (CDV)

• Canine Adenovirus (CAV – Hepatitis)

• Canine Parvovirus (CPV)

**these first 3 core vaccines listed are typically combined into one booster shot (DHP-P)

• Rabies Virus – while rabies is sometimes considered a non-core vaccine, it is required by law in many areas

Non-core vaccines are administered based on risk assessment according to your dog’s environment and lifestyle.  At this time the non-core vaccines are:

• Bordetella Bronchiseptica (kennel cough)

• Leptospirosis

• Corona Virus

• Canine Influenza (H3N8)

• Lyme Disease (Borrelia burgdorferi)

• Crotalus atrox (the western diamondback rattlesnake)

How does my veterinarian decide which vaccines my dog will need?

There are many factors that veterinarians consider when deciding which vaccines your dog needs.  

Some of these factors include:

• Age
• How many pets live in the household
• Exposure to other animals
• Introduction of new pets into the household
• Stress associated with the change of social demographics (this can suppress the immune system, making them more susceptible to infection and disease)
• Making trips to a grooming facility, dog park, or pet store
• Attending obedience classes
• Possibility of staying in boarding facilities or traveling in the future
• Location (geographic distribution of infectious agents may result in different risks of exposure for dogs living in different areas)
• Previous vaccination history

How often will my dog need to get each vaccine?

This varies with the type of vaccine, your pet’s age, lifestyle, local laws, and other health factors.  

Core vaccines:

• Puppies typically receive their core vaccines around 6 to 8 weeks of age, with a booster every 3 to 4 weeks until they are 16 to 20 weeks old.  
• These core vaccines will need boostered again a year later.  
• Depending on factors listed previously, your veterinarian will determine if these vaccines will then be given every 1, 2, or 3 years thereafter.

Rabies vaccine:

• Local and/or state laws mandate how frequently your dog must be vaccinated for rabies.
• The earliest a dog can receive its first rabies vaccination is 12 weeks.  
• After your dog receives it’s first rabies vaccine, it must have a booster one year later.
• Subsequent rabies boosters will be determined by the type of vaccine used and state or local laws.

Non-core vaccines:

• Non-core vaccines are typically given once every year.  
• Depending on your dog’s exposure risk and the possibility of not lasting a full year, this interval may be shorter than one year.  

The overall purpose of vaccination is to protect each dog against infectious agents to which they have a realistic risk of exposure, while vaccinating no more frequently than necessary.  Due to the large list of factors that play a part in determining which vaccines your dog needs and how frequently they need boostered, it is necessary to reassess with your veterinarian every year.  

Why do the cost and frequency of giving these vaccines vary?

High-quality vaccines have become more and more expensive for vaccine makers, as they are highly regulated and pharmaceutical companies must jump through hoops to produce new and updated vaccines.  The result? These costs are passed on to veterinary practices, making some vaccines more expensive than others.

For example, some drug companies have improved the formula enough for vaccines that used to commonly cause tumors at the injection site to a point where this is very rare.  In addition to improving the formula of vaccines, they are also able to create longer-acting protection for some diseases.  This can affect the price of vaccines, as well as the frequency of boosters needed.

Vaccines that don’t contain the most up to date formulations aren’t necessarily unsafe, but it could mean they aren’t able to trigger as strong of an immune response as newer, more expensive shots.

In order to avoid multiple injections, some vaccines are configured to protect against more than one disease in one injection.  Likewise, some diseases have multiple variations within a species of bacteria or viruses.  Formulating vaccines that contain all possible variations adds more expense.  

Fecal Testing:

Your veterinarian may ask you to bring in a stool or fecal sample at your dog’s annual exam to check for intestinal parasites or “worms.”  Some of the parasites they are testing for include roundworms, hookworms, whipworms, tapeworms, coccidia, and giardia.  Some of these parasites are also a risk for humans, with children being at high risk due to their play habits and affection for pets.

This test is not required but is recommended annually. There is no individual deworming medication that will treat every type of parasite at once; therefore, the fecal test will determine which medication your pet needs.

Monthly heartworm prevention contains medication that also treats for some of the common intestinal parasites in dogs and should prevent them from becoming a problem.  

If your dog is experiencing the following symptoms, a fecal test is highly recommended.

• Weight loss accompanied by a marked increase or decrease in appetite
• Distended abdomen, or ‘pot-bellied’ appearance
• Lethargy
• Vomiting
• Diarrhea/chronic soft stools
• Rubbing or dragging the hindquarters across the ground
• Visible presence of segments of tapeworms in dogs attached to the skin and fur around the anus/hindquarters area; look like tiny grains of rice or small flat segments of a worm
• Visible presence of roundworms in dogs in infected stool; looks like spaghetti

Keep in mind, worms don’t always shed their eggs in the stool. Therefore, a negative result doesn’t completely rule out the possibility that worms are present.  For this reason, your veterinarian may recommend treatment anyway, especially if your dog is having any of the symptoms listed above.

Heartworm testing:

Heartworm testing requires a small blood sample from your dog and is typically scheduled during yearly vaccination exams.  Many clinics run heartworm tests in-house, oftentimes obtaining results before you leave the office.  Some clinics send the heartworm tests to a diagnostic laboratory, also getting results fairly quickly.

The American Heartworm Society recommends annual heartworm testing for adult dogs, even when they are on prevention year-round to ensure the prevention program is working.  Each veterinary clinic will determine their heartworm protocol based on these guidelines, as well as geographic location and other factors on a case-by-case basis.

Things to consider when questioning whether a heartworm test is necessary for your pet:

• If just one dose of a monthly medication is missed or given late, it can leave your dog unprotected.
• Your dog may spit out or vomit a heartworm pill, or rub off a topical medication.

If you live in an area where heartworms are prevalent and do not have the income to spend on annual testing, it is highly recommended to spend what is necessary to prevent heartworm disease monthly throughout the entire year.  Prevention is simple and inexpensive compared to the treatment of heartworm disease.

What is a microchip?

Microchips provide a form of permanent identification for your pet. Unlike a collar with tags, a microchip cannot fall off or get lost.  The American Veterinary Medical Association (AVMA) did a study on more than 7,700 stray animals at animal shelters.  The results showed that dogs without a microchip were returned to their owners 21.9% of the time, whereas dogs WITH a microchip were returned to their owners 52.2% of the time. Microchipping represents a significant improvement in the chances that your pet will be returned home! 

These tiny implants, the size of a large grain of rice, are typically injected under the skin between the shoulder blades using a needle and syringe similar to their vaccinations.  The needle used for microchipping is slightly larger than needles used for vaccinations, and are no more painful than a typical injection.  A microchip can be inserted at a routine vaccination visit or while your pet is sedated for a procedure, such as spaying or neutering.

Veterinarians and animal shelters have a scanner that uses radio waves to detect the chip, which then transmits the unique alphanumeric code registered to your dog.  The key here is to make 100% sure you remember to register your dog with the pet recovery database.  It is also important to update your information in the event you have a change of address or phone number.

Because our pets are considered as part of our family, many pet owners are becoming more involved in the health care of their pets.  Understanding the importance of the different vaccinations, staying on a vaccine schedule, and communicating with your veterinarian to determine which vaccines are necessary will help keep your dog healthy.

Click here to download your free Canine Patient Visit Sheet to communicate your questions and concerns with your veterinarian.

It always amazes me how some dogs will eat just about anything.   Rocks, poop, shoes, underwear, trash, children’s toys, just to name a few.  

Many dogs eat whatever they stumble upon, and some have turned counter surfing into an Olympic sport. Beyond just being annoying, this behavior can have serious health consequences for your pet, including death.

Unfortunately, some seemingly innocuous items that are perfectly safe for humans are toxic to dogs. The substance, xylitol, has become increasingly popular as a sugar substitute found in many household items.  

Xylitol is extremely toxic to dogs.

In what products can I find xylitol?

There are a number of products that contain xylitol.  Some of these items include:

• Cough syrup
• Sugar-free gum
• Candy
• Breath mints
• Baked goods
• Chewable or gummy vitamins
• Mouthwash
• Toothpaste
• Pudding snacks
• Diabetic snacks and foods
• Nasal sprays
• Baby wipes
• Deodorant
• Face gels
• Hair products

What happens when dogs eat xylitol? 

When dogs consume something that contains xylitol, it is quickly absorbed into the bloodstream, resulting in a potent release of insulin from the pancreas.  This causes a rapid decrease in blood sugar, a condition known as hypoglycemia, and in severe cases liver failure. When this goes untreated it can be fatal.

How much xylitol does it take to make my dog sick?

Dosages of xylitol over 34 to 45mg/pound have been associated with hypoglycemia.  Some dogs ingesting xylitol at dosages over 227mg/pound can develop liver failure.  The higher the dose, the higher the risk of liver failure. It is important to identify if a toxic amount of xylitol has been ingested.  

For example, different brands of gum contain different amounts of xylitol.  The typical range of xylitol is 300mg to 1500mg/piece of gum; therefore, a 20-pound dog can experience toxicity after ingesting one piece of gum containing 1000mg.

What are the symptoms of xylitol poisoning?

Signs of xylitol toxicity can occur as soon as 15 minutes after consumption.  Some signs to look for include:

• Weakness
• Depression or lethargy
• Lack of coordination or difficulty walking or standing
• Vomiting
• Trembling or tremoring
• Seizures

What do I do if I think my dog is suffering from xylitol poisoning?

Call your veterinarian or Pet Poison Helpline (855-764-7661) immediately.  Do not induce vomiting unless specifically directed to do so by your veterinarian.  If your dog is already hypoglycemic, inducing vomiting can make it worse.

Now that you know what to look for, read those labels and be sure to keep products containing xylitol away from your dog.  If you have a lot of sugar-free foods in your home, be careful not to share these foods with your dog.

If you have cats in your home, you are probably wondering if they too can suffer from xylitol poisoning. While there are no reported cases of xylitol poisoning in cats, it is best to keep substances containing xylitol away from your feline friends as well.  Better to be safe than sorry!

Winter weight gain in dogs is all too real!  You may think a few extra pounds on your dog is not a problem, but did you know being just 10-20% over their ideal weight can cause serious medical conditions?  That’s less than 1 extra pound for a Chihuahua and only 5 extra pounds for a Golden Retriever.

For many of us, winter weather makes it difficult to take our dogs on a regular walk.  Further, some dogs are not keen to go out in the snow for a quick bathroom break, let alone a romp through the yard.  

The lack of regular activity combined with the occasional treat from guests visiting for the holidays, can quickly add a few extra pounds.

What do these extra pounds mean for my dog?

Potential problems with overweight dogs:

• Shorter lifespan
• Osteoarthritis
• Heart disease
• Increased frequency of joint injuries
• Type 2 diabetes
• High blood pressure
• Some forms of cancer

And because overweight dogs tend to lie around more, it is easy to overlook early signs of illness and associate their lethargy with normal laziness.

So how do I help my dog shed those extra pounds?

A daily walk can do wonders for your dogs weight loss, as well as their mental state.  The positive benefits of a daily walk also apply to the other end of the leash. This form of exercise is a great way to improve or maintain your overall mental and physical health as well.  So grab the leash and start pounding the pavement!

When walking for weight loss, aim for a brisk 30 minute walk every day.  Keep in mind, a brisk walk means you should break a sweat within a few minutes.  

This is easier said than done, particularly when your dog wants to stop and sniff every 5 seconds.  In order to get results, start your walk as fast as possible and slow down as needed. Many dogs will get into a zone with a faster pace, making it easier for them to overlook the need to stop at the nearest fire hydrant for a good sniff.

My dog LOVES treats, and is relentless with begging for more!

Did you know that treats should only take up less than 10% of your dog’s calorie intake?  

If you have a dog that begs for treats, it’s because they have an owner that rewards begging. They don’t make it easy for us.  What are we to do when they look at us with those puppy dog eyes? Change your behavior and your dog will change theirs too.  

Not that we have to eliminate treats altogether!  Taking a close look at how these extra calories are adding up and finding some low-cal options will help.

Some low-calorie, healthy treat options include:

• Low sodium green beans
• Low sodium pretzels
• Unsalted unbuttered popcorn
• Carrot sticks
• Apples (without the core and seeds)

Click here to download a recipe to make your own low calorie dog biscuits.

What about diet dog food?

If you think your dog has gained more than a couple pounds, regular exercise and a decreased amount of treats may not be enough to help them shed those extra pounds.   A diet may be necessary.

Determining an effective and safe diet plan for you dog can be difficult, and sometimes dangerous, without the assistance of your veterinary healthcare team.  Your veterinarian can assess your dogs body condition score and determine their ideal weight, as well as daily calorie intake to achieve their goals.  

Another benefit in consulting with your veterinarian is to rule out any underlying medical conditions that could be contributing to your dogs weight gain.   In some cases, a prescription weight loss food may be necessary. 

Consistent exercise, combined with carefully monitoring excess calorie intake, will help your dog lose those extra pounds.  Keeping your pet at a healthy weight can lower their risk of illnesses associated with excess weight, giving them a chance at a longer, healthier, and happier life.  

Does your dog have a weight loss success story?   Please share your story in the comments. We love hearing from you!

Sometimes as I clean my house, I wonder how many dogs actually live in my home.  It seems that there is enough dog hair for at least 10 dogs, but the last time I checked, there is only 1 dog living with me.  For the life of me, I have no idea how one 40 pound mutt can regenerate and shed what appears to be her own body weight in hair every week.

Someone remind me why I thought those black dress pants were a good idea!

So what gives?  Why does it look like my dog had little hairy puppies in every nook and cranny just minutes after I vacuum?

To find the answer to the shedding hair dilemma, we must first understand the important role their coat plays.

My hair is more important than you might think!

Your dog’s skin is their most vital organ, and their hair serves as an important protectant from elements such as heat, cold, sun, and more.  Did you know your dog’s hair can help regulate their body temperature? Their hair functions as a layer of insulation between their skin and external environment, keeping them both warm and cool as needed.  

Many times people have their dogs hair shaved for the summer.  Keep in mind, this doesn’t always keep them cool! Not only does it increase their risk for sunburn, but many breeds rely on this insulating layer to keep them cool.  Regular brushing and bathing is the best way to remove their loose undercoat and can cut down on the hairball formation throughout your home.

Why does my hair fall off anyway?

Just like people, dog hair grows continually and will break off at the end of its life cycle.  Exactly how much hair will break off depends on many factors; such as breed, health, age, and season.  Keep in mind, some breeds shed seasonally, while others shed year round.  

Seasonal shedding, sometimes referred to as “blowing their coat,” typically happens in the spring and fall.  For those of us with double-coated breeds; such as Siberian Huskies, the amount of hair released from their undercoat can be overwhelming.  These breeds have an outer layer of long guard hairs to protect against snow, rain, and ice, as well as a soft undercoat layer to keep them warm and dry. 

During the summer season, they will shed their undercoat, leaving the outer layer to protect against the sun.  With the absence of the undercoat, these guard hairs allow air to circulate, keeping them cool. In lieu of shaving their hair, it is recommended to brush them 2-3 times a week with a rake or shedding blade.  Bathing can be helpful when using dog specific shampoos that are made for your dog’s skin and coat. Be sure to rinse and dry properly after a bath!

 If you are one of the lucky pet owners whose dog sheds year round, it is helpful to brush them on a weekly basis.  Brushing can be a bonding experience, and there are professional groomers who have the appropriate equipment to help remove the excess hair.  

Did you know nutrition can affect my skin coat?

Your dog’s skin and coat health can be greatly affected by nutritional factors.  It is important to feed a well balanced diet with the appropriate amount of protein, fat, vitamins, and minerals.  Finding the right diet for your dog is easier said than done with all of the brands that are currently available. A simple call to your veterinarian to ask which brands they recommend can help alleviate diet concerns.

I may be losing too much hair because I’m sick!

Excessive hair loss can be attributed to a variety of factors.  If you notice your dog losing hair in spots, patches, or isolated areas, this may indicate the possibility of an underlying illness.  Irregular hair loss can be a sign of allergies, hormone imbalance, stress, skin conditions, parasites and more. When in doubt, schedule an appointment with your veterinarian to rule out illness.

Every dog is different, and factors such as breed, age, season, nutrition, and overall health can affect the amount of hair they shed.  Learning what is “normal” shedding for your dog is important in helping you identify a sudden hair loss change, which could indicate an underlying illness. 

Cleaning up dog hair can be an ongoing struggle, but it is a small price to pay for the unconditional love they give us every day. 

Simply can’t get past the hair, but still want a dog in your life?  There are plenty of hypoallergenic and low shedding breeds; such as Bichons, Poodles, Schnauzers, Cairn Terriers, and Maltese to name a few.

Does your dog shed like crazy?  Do you have any tips for us on keeping up with the dog hair?  Please share your best and worst shedding scenarios!  We love hearing from you!

I don’t know about you, but when I’m out and about I love being surprised by the presence of an animal. Whether it’s a festival, sporting event, or just simply running errands, it seems like people bring their pets in tow any chance they can get. Being the dog lover that I am, spotting a dog while out in public always makes my heart happy.

Recently, I encountered dogs in a very unexpected location. 

On a hot summer afternoon in June, my husband and I made a quick road trip to Cincinnati, Ohio to see the Dead & Co. For those of you that don’t already know, this is a band consisting of former Grateful Dead members.  If you ever have the opportunity to see this show, I highly recommend you don’t pass it up!   

There is something special about this community of Deadheads sharing similar interests and enjoying the concert in unity.

In my opinion, the best part of the show was way before the show even started.  Luckily my husband is in the know with all things Grateful, and he insisted we get there several hours early. We made our way to a grassy field where a few tents were lined up, and set up some chairs in the shade.  In a matter of minutes the entire area, known as Shakedown Street, was covered with hippie merchants selling their wares.   

What started as just a few tents, quickly turned into row upon row of miniature stores with endless selections of tie-dyes, art, jewelry, posters, pins and patches, and food.  

As I meandered through Shakedown Street, one of the very first things I noticed were numerous dogs.  These hippie dogs seemed content in hanging close by their owners, and not one of them ever wandered far.  I was intrigued.

I began talking with the dog owners, and immediately noticed how their faces would light up when I asked about their faithful companions.  These dogs had plenty of shade, fresh water, food, a comfortable place to lay, and endless supplies of affection.

After spending time with these dogs and their grateful owners, I gained greater admiration for the Deadhead culture. 

What many people seem to think is a drug crazed, rebellious fan base, is actually a community of devoted fans sharing principles such as friendliness, happiness, and peacefulness.

In general, dogs seem to share similar principles.  A few characteristics I’ve always admired about dogs are their unconditional love, genuine peaceful nature, and positive vibes.  As long as their basic needs are met, they will reward their owners with endless amounts of love.  

I’m guessing the harmonious relationship between these dogs and their hippie owners may be a result of their similar outlook on life.  As long as a few basic needs are met, all is well. Living in peace and harmony with others will trump any negativity that could ever steal their joy.

Being grateful for each moment can be easier said than done for most of us.  I think we can all learn a little something from the dogs of the The Dead and the Deadhead culture.

Where do you and your pet like to venture to?  Please share your favorite place to bring your pet along!  We love hearing from you!

If your dog has ever come inside smelling like they just rolled in something rotten, you understand how absolutely frustrating this can be. Learning why dogs do some of these things may be more interesting than you might expect.

We have a doggy door at our house.  For me, the best part about having a doggy door is that my dog can come and go as she pleases, and I needn’t take pause from my busy life to attend her needs.  As long as her door is open, she can chase squirrels, relieve herself, or lay in the sun whenever she pleases.

We also have an electric fence, so she is confined to our yard. However, the wildlife that come through my neighborhood can meander through my yard and leave their stinky deposits within reach.   And these wonderful critters just LOVE to turn my backyard into a wild animal porta potty.

Just a few days ago, my husband and I were interrupted while working on a project upstairs, when she came bolting inside and began buzzing through the house.  This behavior is always a red flag! Something exciting went down in the backyard and this is her way of telling us. Once she calmed down a bit, we noticed that familiar foul smell and knew our project was on hold until she got a bath.  

So why in the world do dogs roll in rotten and stinky stuff?

After doing some research on the subject, it appears there is not one specific answer to the question.  Before I share theories from various veterinary behaviorists and scientists, please know the anatomy of a dog’s nose is more complex than one might think, and their sense of smell plays a big part in their desire to roll in nastiness.

Dog nose vs. human nose:

Dogs have around 300 million olfactory receptors, whereas humans only have around 6 million.  When we breathe, we smell and breathe through the same airway within our nose. Dogs have a fold of tissue inside their nostril that splits the flow into two paths.  One for olfaction (smell) and one for respiration.  

Have you ever noticed the rapid rate that dogs can inhale?  Their unique olfactory system, creates wind currents in their exhalations that hurry their inhalations.  Basically, this allows them to sniff continuously.

We now know that dogs have cool noses…..so why roll in stinky stuff?

Communicating with their pack:

Many veterinary behaviorists and researchers believe this behavior is related to a dog’s ancestry.  Wolves will use scent rolling as a way to bring information back to the pack. Rolling in the scent, covering their face and neck with it, they will return to the pack who then uses this information to determine where their prey has been.  

For a wolf pack, this can be beneficial for hunting.  For our “pack”, this is just gross and does not help us in any way, but I like to think our dogs feel they are contributing to our family.   This may explain why they run inside beaming with pride, playfully buzzing through the house full of excitement after a good roll in poop.

Dogs like gross smells and wear them proudly:

Humans tend to prefer smells that are floral, fresh, and remind us of pleasant things: freshly baked cookies, clean laundry, the ocean, etc.

Dogs prefer smells that we humans wish we never had to smell again: poop, dead animals, urine, another dogs nether regions, a humans nether regions, etc. 

We burn our ocean scented candles, and wear floral perfumes with pride.  Our dogs are no different in their sense of pride after a good roll in fox poop.

My dog smells awful, what can I do to keep them from rolling in poop?

A thousand years of genetic development cannot be influenced easily.  The most we can hope for is to curb this behavior when we are present to do so.  In our absence, most dogs will succumb to their genetic instincts.

For those of you that are willing to devote a great deal of time training your dog, click here to learn some commands that will help prevent this behavior.  For the rest of us, shXX happens….literally.  

How can I get rid of these nasty smells on my dog?

When it happens let not your heart be troubled. The following recipe will help strip the nasty smells from your dogs fur. 

Mix the following ingredients:

• 1 quart of 3% hydrogen peroxide
• ¼ cup of baking soda
• 1 teaspoon of Dawn dish soap

DO NOT get this solution in their eyes.   Please know that peroxide can bleach their fur if left on too long.  After using the above mixture, rinse thoroughly, then wash your dog with pet shampoo.

There may not be a specific answer as to why dogs roll in poop; however, one thing we do know, is that odors are important to our dogs!  Whether it be deep-seated instinctual behavior, or simply a desire to share their poop findings with us, one thing we can be sure of, our dogs always keep us on our toes.  Not a day goes by that I don’t question why in the world my dog is behaving in a certain way, and I love her for it!

Hey, in the comments….tell us how your pet keeps you on your toes.  Something that annoys you or something that you love. Either way, we love hearing from you!

Are you sick and tired of cleaning up after your puppy? Worried that your new pet may be untrainable?  If you feel hopeless, and your patience is wearing thin, you are not alone. You are now part of a large group of pet owners that are all questioning their sanity at this very moment.

The housetraining phase of puppydom requires dedication, consistency and a whole lotta patience!  With some effort on your part, it is entirely possible for your puppy to be 100% housetrained. 

Step #1:  Get everyone in your household involved.

To increase your housetraining success rate, make sure you include all family members in your training protocol. Every member of your household must be on the same page! The key to training a puppy anything is consistency.

Step #2:  Designate a specific potty area/routine.

Determine which door and a specific spot in the yard that you would like to train your puppy to do his/her business.  You will be using the same door and taking him to the same spot in the yard EVERY SINGLE TIME.

Step #3:  Be prepared by keeping the following materials handy.

• Paper towels
• Enzymatic carpet cleaner (more specifics on this type of cleaner later)
• Treats
• A leash and collar (leave a leash and collar by the designated potty door.)   I recommend a slip leash for easy exits -pictured here.

Step #4:  Celebrate when your puppy does things your way!

This is the fun part!  Take your puppy out the potty door,  walk them to their designated potty spot and ask them to go potty.  Yes, you will need to tell your pup in a pleasant and calm voice to “go potty” or whatever phrase your family comes up with.  Be sure to repeat the phrase until your puppy actually does the dirty. Here is the important part! AS SOON AS your puppy does the dirty, the potty party begins.  A proper potty party consists of words of praise, a food reward, and lots of positive attention. “Good puppy!” “Good go potty!!!”

Step #5:  Be aware of the second act.  Why does my puppy go outside, then immediately come in and pee?

As soon as you bring your puppy back in the house be on high alert.  Many times a puppy will go outside, but they are not relaxed enough to express their entire bladder.  These tricky pee monsters will fool you into thinking they did their business and come back inside to immediately urinate on the floor.  If this is happening to you, I recommend bringing them in for a quick second and then taking them right back out. It may take some time for them to squeeze it all out, so plan to add a bit more time in your schedule for these potty sessions.  

Also, if your puppy is excited to see you and their adrenaline is pumping, they may not relax enough to completely express their bladder. Once they come inside and settle down, they will then finish what they started right there in your living room.

Step #6:  What do I do when I catch my puppy in the act of pottying in the house?

When you catch your puppy making a pee or poo inside, immediately scoop them up and startle them with a stern NO. Take them outside to their potty spot and follow your lessons listed above.

NEVER rub their nose in it, spank them or go on a yelling rampage. Releasing your anger in this way might make your feel better, but teaches your puppy absolutely nothing.  Acting this way creates confusion, destroys trust and makes you look like an out of control bully. Remember it is up to you to be watching your puppy at all times. If you are distracted by housework, tv, etc try putting your puppy in their crate until you can pay more attention.

MORE PATIENCE!  YOU GOT THIS!

Step #7:  Accidents will happen…cleaning up the mess.

I recommend an enzymatic cleaner such as Equalizer Spray. This spray can be found on Amazon, and many online pet pharmacies, and averages around $20 for a 20 oz can.   You can read a review on this product here.

It is important to clean up the soiled area as best you can, eliminating any smells that may trigger your puppy to return to that particular spot.

Step #8:  Provide appropriate amount of food and water.

A feeding schedule of 2-3 meals a day is ideal. FRESH water should always be available when you are home. If you are keeping your puppy in a crate while you are away, do not put food and water inside the crate.

Keep food available for 20-30 minutes at a time. This will help your puppy understand a feeding schedule and helps you know if/when your puppy is eating.   If they don’t eat after 30 minutes, put the food bowl up until next scheduled feeding time. NO this is not mean. Your puppy will not starve itself, and with consistency on your part they will adapt to your feeding schedule.

The last meal of the day should be 3 hours before bedtime.  Pick up water bowls an hour before bedtime.

Step #9:  Know when your puppy will feel the urge to go.   Many times puppies will give you telling cues when they are about to pee or poop.

Signs that a potty break is imminent include: restlessness, sniffing, a sudden romp to the corner of another room, and circling (the last one requires quick action on your part).  These are your telling cues that it is time to go outside sooner rather than later.

Many regular activities such as eating, drinking, playing, and waking from a nap, are a stimulus for potty time and the perfect opportunity for you to put your house training lessons into play.   

Step #10:  How long does it typically take to completely house train a puppy?  

Many people ask how long will it take for my puppy to be completely house trained or want to know how old their puppy will be when they master this skill.  The answer lies in your efforts. Never give up and be consistent! It will happen. Some puppies pick up on it in a couple of months or less, while others require more extended training.  But no matter what, using the lessons outlined here, any puppy is trainable.

I remember feeling like I was at my breaking point with my puppy, when all of a sudden something just clicked.  He stopped having accidents in the house, and seemed to know what I was asking of him. Just when I felt like giving up!

Stay positive!  This is a trying time and many pet owners do give up and return their puppy.  Be that pet owner that follows through with their commitment and reaps the many benefits of living in harmony with their housetrained pet some day!  

Comment below and share how your house training efforts are coming along.

“Leave it” is my favorite command because it can be used for so many different reasons.  When used properly this command can potentially prevent your dog from being injured or getting into trouble.  In my opinion, this command is not only extremely useful, it is also fun to teach and a cool trick to show off your dogs skill.

A few examples of when this command can come in handy:

• don’t eat the goose poop on the sidewalk
• let go of your toy so I can throw it again
• nice try, but you aren’t taking the loaf of freshly baked banana bread off the kitchen counter
• I see you sniffing the ground and demand you not roll in that stinky pile of fox poo
• STOP there is a car coming

You get the idea.

Teaching this command is not difficult, but it is extremely important you completely understand the proper way to do it.  If you are confused and unsure, it will not work. No worries, the steps listed below combined with this video will set you up for success.  (insert video link here)

Let’s get started.

Step #1

Make sure you have two different types of treats, one with a higher value than the other. For example: one treat is of higher value because it is something that smells really good to your dog that they don’t typically have access to, while the second one is a lower value treat that is soft, easy to break into small pieces

Step #2

Put one of each type of treat in each hand, then put both hands behind your back.

Step #3

Make a fist with the hand that has the treat of lesser value and present it to your dog.  Let him sniff this treat keeping your fist tightly closed. Keep the hand with the higher value treat behind your back.

Step #4  

Give the command “leave it” – be sure to say leave it with an authoritative voice.

Step #5

AS SOON AS your dog stops sniffing your fist, say “YES” in a positive tone and give the dog one of the higher value treats by placing it on the ground close by

Continue practicing steps 1 through 5 until your dog stops sniffing immediately after you give the leave it command.  Don’t expect immediate results, but don’t give up. You will succeed with practice!

Why am I using treats of higher and lesser value?  You’re teaching your dog that asking him to leave something he wants doesn’t mean he gets nothing, in fact he might get something even better.  Eventually, this command will help teach self control in various situations.

Once you and your pup have mastered steps 1 through 5, it’s time to celebrate and move o to step #6.   Congratulations!

Step #6

Now it’s time to gradually open your fist and make the lesser value treat more enticing/accessible.  Follow the same process in steps 4 and 5 and practice until you’ve mastered this step. IF you experience a failure, no worries, simply go back to previous steps and come back to step 6 when you’re ready.

Step #7

Once you continually see positive results from step #6, it is time to place the lesser value treat uncovered on the ground.  **Be ready to grab the lesser value treat and DO NOT let your dog get that treat after you give the leave it command! This is very tempting and some dogs will lose focus when they see the exposed treat.

Step #8

With continual success from step 7, begin moving the treat closer and closer to your dog.  Once you feel confident with your progress, you can start using higher value treats.

Step #9  

If you really want to get fancy, ask your dog to lay down and place the treat close enough to touch their paw.  If this is working for you, it’s time to practice with various items that your dog seems attracted to: your kids toy, plate with crumbs on it, your shoe.

You’ve done it!  Start using the leave it command on a regular basis and remember to praise your dog when they follow your command.

Next time you witness unwanted behaviour from your dog, try giving the leave it command in a loud clear voice and be sure to give lots of praise when they stop the negative behavior.  

Please comment with your experience using the leave it command. Did it help prevent a potentially bad situation? We love hearing your feedback!